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Spray Insulation~Deal of the Week

If you have ever wanted to super insulate your home or business against the cold and heat and protect the bank account from the rising costs of our Electricity Rates – Ameren UE and New Gas Rate Hikes – Laclede Gas. The following offer I received from a couple of my Spray Insulation Dealers is just what your Bank Account needs.

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ISOCYANATE PROMOTIONWhile Supplies last we are offering our customers 500 lbs of PMDI Isocyanate forbelow wholesale prices!! Compatible with most all spray foam products, very clean, high quality ISO.

YOUR PRICE$ 650.00

Promotions running on 500lb Iso’s and system pricing on our EcoGuard 500 and EcoTite 1200. Let us start helping you save money today!

  • EcoSeal 500 .5 OPEN CELL foam. 18,000 board feet yield, odorless and excellent adhesion.
  • EcoTite 1200 1.2lb open cell spray foam. R-Value 5.0 per inch. 3.55 perms per inch, has a tensile strength close to closed cell foam. No scraping or scarfing, Odorless products
Syenergy Spray Foam Specialistsoffers a broad range of innovative solutions to meet all your needs. Whether big or small, our products are made with precision, in accordance with the highest quality standards. All Syenergy spray foam products are custom blended when you order to insure the highest quality and the freshest material. You can rely on our products to get the job done right!An overview of our Products:

Syenergy 500- Renewable Resource Based .5 lb Open Cell Spray Foam Insulation. Passes the NFPA 286 Appendix X with no thermal barrier or intumescent coatings. Read More….

Syenergy Seal 500 – Class one .5 lb Open Cell Spray Foam Insulation with an R value of 3.83 per in. We use low odor catalysts and it will not cause a “blue haze” for installers. Read More….

Syenergy 1200 – Is a Hybrid Open cell foam insulations with a high R value of 5 per inch. Read More….

Syenergy 1800W & 1800 245fa– Class one thermoset 1.7 and 1.8 lb. water blown Closed cell Spray Foam Insulation that has a high r value of 5.5 per inch and contains the highest level of agriculturally based renewable resources content available on the market.Read More….

ECOSAFE Spray Foam Insulation is the newest SPF company to the market. Our goal is to produce the most technologically advanced products at the most affordable price. Homeowners demand the safest, greenest products for their home and ECOSAFE strives to deliver. Our certified contractor program encompasses all areas of the spray foam business, so that every time a contractor installs ECOSAFE products, it is installed to our specifications. Spec SheetsSyenergy 500

Syenergy Seal 500

Syenergy 1200

Syenergy 1800W & 1800 245fa

Company Website:http://www.ecosafefoam.com/index.php5 Company website: http://www.syenergyfoam.com/

Schedule a Free Green Site Evaluation at the Web Locations Below and Scotts Contracting will respond as fast as humanly possible.

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scottscontracting@gmail.com
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Air Sealing a Ceiling Electrical Junction Box

CAD Design-Weatherize-Insulate-Fire Block-Electrical Junction Box

Air Sealing Ceiling Electrical Junction Box

CAD Diagram explains how to Build and Air Tight Electrical Junction Box located in most Attics

Sealing Air Leaks

Warm air leaking into your home during the summer and out of your home during the winter and can waste a lot of your energy dollars. One of the quickest dollar-saving tasks you can do is caulk, seal, and weatherstrip all seams, cracks, and openings to the outside. You can save on your heating and cooling bill by reducing the air leaks in your home.

Hint: Use Fire Rated: 5/8″Fire Rated Drywall or Sheetrock with Fire Proof Caulking to Create the Air Tight Seal

Fire Proof /Air Tight Electrical Junction Box Cover used in Attics

Tips for Sealing Air Leaks

re-posted from:http://www.energysavers.gov/tips/insulation_sealing.cfm

Pie chart shows how air escapes from a typical home: 31% floors, ceiling, walls; 15% ducts; 14% fireplace; 13% plumbing penetrations, 11% doors; 10% windows; 4% fans and vents; 2% electric outlets.How Does the Air Escape?
Air infiltrates into and out of your home through every hole and crack. About one-third of this air infiltrates through openings in your ceilings, walls, and floors.
  • First, test your home for air tightness. On a windy day, carefully hold a lit incense stick or a smoke pen next to your windows, doors, electrical boxes, plumbing fixtures, electrical outlets, ceiling fixtures, attic hatches, and other locations where there is a possible air path to the outside. If the smoke stream travels horizontally, you have located an air leak that may need caulking, sealing, or weatherstripping.
  • Caulk and weatherstrip doors and windows that leak air.
  • Caulk and seal air leaks where plumbing, ducting, or electrical wiring penetrates through walls, floors, ceilings, and soffits over cabinets.
  • Install foam gaskets behind outlet and switch plates on walls.
  • Look for dirty spots in your insulation, which often indicate holes where air leaks into and out of your house. You can seal the holes with low-expansion spray foam made for this purpose.
  • Look for dirty spots on your ceiling paint and carpet, which may indicate air leaks at interior wall/ceiling joints and wall/floor joists. These joints can be caulked.
  • Install storm windows over single-pane windows or replace them with more efficient windows, such as double-pane. See Windows on page 18 for more information.
  • When the fireplace is not in use, keep the flue damper tightly closed. A chimney is designed specifically for smoke to escape, so until you close it, warm air escapes—24 hours a day!
  • For new construction, reduce exterior wall leaks by installing house wrap, taping the joints of exterior sheathing, and comprehensively caulking and sealing the exterior walls.
  • Use foam sealant around larger gaps around windows, baseboards, and other places where warm air may be leaking out.
  • Kitchen exhaust fan covers can keep air from leaking in when the exhaust fan is not in use. The covers typically attach via magnets for ease of replacement.
  • Replacing existing door bottoms and thresholds with ones that have pliable sealing gaskets is a great way to eliminate conditioned air leaking out from underneath the doors.
  • Fireplace flues are made from metal, and over time repeated heating and cooling can cause the metal to warp or break, creating a channel for hot or cold air loss. Inflatable chimney balloons are designed to fit beneath your fireplace flue during periods of non-use. They are made from several layers of durable plastic and can be removed easily and reused hundreds of times. Should you forget to remove the balloon before making a fire, the balloon will automatically deflate within seconds of coming into contact with heat.
Cutaway house illustration showing areas of home where air leaks. Refer to caption for list.Sources of Air Leaks in Your Home
Areas that leak air into and out of your home cost you lots of money. Check the areas listed below.

  1. Dropped ceiling
  2. Recessed light
  3. Attic entrance
  4. Sill plates
  1. Water and furnace flues
  2. All ducts
  3. Door frames
  4. Chimney flashing
  1. Window frames
  2. Electrical outlets and switches
  3. Plumbing and utility access
Scotts Contracting is available to assist you in improving your Home or Business Energy Demands.  Please use this form to Contact Scotty, Scotts Contracting to schedule a FREE Energy Analysis for your Property.

How Insulation Works-Typical-St Louis Brick Home used in Examples

CAD Drawing-Insulation-St Louis Brick Home-Examples

How Insulation Works
Top View: Brick Home with Zero Insulation
Brick Home Wall Detail with Zero Insulation
Brick Home with Insulation in Wall Cavity


Why Insulate Your House?


Heating and cooling account for 50 to 70% of the energy used in the average American home. Inadequate insulation and air leakage are leading causes of energy waste in most homes. Insulation:

  • saves money and our nation’s limited energy resources
  • makes your house more comfortable by helping to maintain a uniform temperature throughout the house, and
  • makes walls, ceilings, and floors warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.

The amount of energy you conserve will depend on several factors: your local climate; the size, shape, and construction of your house; the living habits of your family; the type and efficiency of the heating and cooling systems; and the fuel you use.

Once the energy savings have paid for the installation cost, energy conserved is money saved -saving energy will be even more important as utility rates go up.

This fact sheet will help you to understand how insulation works, what different types of insulation are available, and how much insulation makes sense for your climate. There are many other things you can do to conserve energy in your home as well. The Department of Energy offers many web sites(http://ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/ins_07.html) to help you save energy by sealing air leaks, selecting more energy-efficient appliances, etc.


How Insulation Works

How Insulation Works
  • Heat flows naturally from a warmer to a cooler space. In winter, the heat moves directly from all heated living spaces to the outdoors and to adjacent unheated attics, garages, and basements – wherever there is a difference in temperature.
  • During the summer, heat moves from outdoors to the house interior.
  • To maintain comfort, the heat lost in winter must be replaced by your heating system and the heat gained in summer must be removed by your air conditioner. Insulating ceilings, walls, and floors decreases the heating or cooling needed by providing an effective resistance to the flow of heat.
  • Reflective insulation or Radiant Barriers works by reducing the amount of energy that travels in the form of radiation. Some forms of reflective insulation also divide a space up into small regions to reduce air movement, or convection, but not to the same extent as batts, blankets, loose-fill, and foam.


Reference> http://ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/ins_01.html

Fall Weatherization Services Offer

If you are interested in Saving Money on your up-coming winter time heating costs Scotts Contracting offers: Weatherization, Insulation, and Building Maintenance Services that will save you money on your Heating Bills.

Offer is available for Residential and Commercial Buildings in the Greater St Louis Area

Scotts Contracting supplies:

Cost Effective Solutions that will save you $ Money $ on your Heating Bills.

energy audit

Blower Door Energy Audit Test

 My motto: Affordable, Experienced, and Punctual.

General Rule of Thumb for Energy Efficient Up-Grades for Buildings: For Every Dollar you spend you will save between $2-$3 Dollars on your Heating Bills.

Example:
  • $3000.00 Dollar Attic Retrofits Costs for Average 1,100 Sq. Ft. Residential Home
  • With my Preliminary Figures using a Guesstimate ($400) on your current Energy Bill and using the Dept of Energy’s Estimate of 20% Savings for attic retrofits. I’ve determined that by Sealing your Air Leaks and Adding Insulation to the Attic the Attic Retrofit will pay for itself in 2.6 years. [ I would wager that it will be closer to 1.75-2 years with the yearly utility rate increases by Ameren UE and Laclede Gas.]
Attic Retrofit Consists of:
  1. Adding Insulation to meet the US Dept of Energy Guidelines for the St Louis Area
  2. Sealing all the Air Leaks that are allowing the Cold Air into your Building
  3. Adding Proper Ventilation

I’ve published many handy how to articles on Saving Money on Energy Bills if you choose to DIY or would like to research articles on Saving $Money$ on Utility Bills click here to browse these articles on my Green Blog 

Energy Audits are also available

Feel Free to use the Following Form to schedule an energy Audit or Weatherization for Your Property.

Old Man Winter Batters the USA- Tips for Saving Money On Energy Bills

Reduce your Energy Imprint, Carbon Foot Print, UN-Needed and Wasteful Energy Consumption by Winterizing your Home and Business.

The Money You Spend on Weatherization will come back to you in real time savings on your Heating Bills
!!!

Step 1: Check for Wind and Drafts in your Buildings Structure:

a) check for air drafts entering your Buildings Interior by: Looking for air gaps by sight, feel or you can use a candle, Smudge Sticks, Incense Sticks (be care full of any open flame in your home/business; especially when testing by windows with Curtains).
b) Places to check: Windows, Doors, Visually Inspect Exterior of your Structure for signs of disrepair, Base Boards and Electrical Outlets around the exterior walls of your home, Electrical Outlets

Step 2: Stop the Cold Air from entering your Structure: Seal all Cracks, Air Gaps, Add Vapor Barriers and or Insulation Where Needed

a) Seal Cracks around Window Frames with Caulking/Expandable Foam.
+Caulking / Expandable Foam can be purchased at Home Improvement Stores, Hardware Stores, Lumber Yards;
+Cost $3-$5 / Tube or Can
+Foam Strips of Self Adhesive Strips can be added to the Window Frames
Costs: $5-$25 / Door

b) Doors:
+Self Adhesive Strips can be added to the Door Stops around the Door Frame
+Costs: $5-$25 / Door
Bottom of the Door is the Threshold and will create the largest air Gap, Stop Air Infiltration by Installing a New Threshold
+Costs: $10-$35 / Door
+ Seal Door Trim with Caulking (around Edges) Expandable Foam Insulation (behind the trim)
Costs: Cost $3-$5 / Tube or Can

c) Base Boards
+ Seal with Caulking or Remove and add Insulation in the Gap between wall material and Flooring
Costs: Caulking $3-$5 / Tube; Insulation $20-$45 / Roll

d) Exterior Electrical Outlets
+ Seal with Caulking or add Insulation in the Gap between wall material and Electric Box Remove Electric Box and Seal with Vapor Barrier / Insulation, then Re-Install Electrical Box and Components $20-$45 each by Qualified Handy Man or Electrician)
Costs: Caulking $3-$5 / Tube; Insulation $20-$45 / Roll

Step 3 Attic Insulation-Suggested Insulation Levels [R-Value] For the St Louis Region (suggestions by the US Dept of Energy)

  1. Attic Insulation Level Should be a Minimum Level R-49

  2. Wall Insulation Level Minimum Level R-13

  3. Flooring Insulation Minimum Level R-30

  4. Basement Interior Wall Minimum Level R-11

Additional Information on Insulation can be found:Insulating Roofs, Walls, and Floors , Attic Insulation and Attic Energy Solutions , Roof and Attic Ventilation , Fall Home Check Up Guide with Photos

NOTE: For Every $1-Dollar Spent on Weatherization will Return a $2 Savings on your Energy Bills every year!!!

Scotty-Scotts Contracting Guarantees that with proper insulation levels and stopping the Cold Air Drafts in your Building you will save money on your Heating Bills.

DOE_Weatherization_Recovery_Act_Saves $1,200,000,000

  • weatherized more than 300,000 homes
  • reduce home energy bills
  • reduces energy consumption- average 35 percent
  • $400 saved bills 1st YR
  • 300,000 homes x $400 Saved = $1,200,000,000

 

email Scotts Contracting to schedule a Home Weatherization Inspection.   Scotty, will Analyze your Buildings Components and Supply a Proposal that will meet or exceed suggested Green Building Code– scottscontracting@gmail.com

  1. Computer Generated Reports
  2. Green Proposal will supply a ROI
  3. Cost Saving Analysis

Weatherization Doesn’t Cost it Saves


Secretary Chu Announces Major New Recovery Act Milestone: 300,000 Homes Weatherized

U.S. Department of Energy Secretary Steven Chu today announced that states and territories across the country have now weatherized more than 300,000 low-income homes under the Recovery Act, a major milestone in the Department’s efforts to reduce home energy bills for families. This means that states are now more than 50 percent of the way toward meeting President Obama’s goal of weatherizing approximately 600,000 homes under the Recovery Act. The weatherization program is helping families save money on their energy bills by improving home energy efficiency with upgrades like insulation, air-sealing, and more efficient heating and cooling systems. The program has also trained a new generation of clean energy workers and is employing more than 15,000 workers nationwide.

“Today marks a major milestone for the weatherization program and shows once again that we are on pace to meet the goals of the Recovery Act. This program has already benefitted 300,000 low-income families and put thousands of people to work,” said Secretary Chu. “Through the weatherization program, we are laying the groundwork for a broader efficiency industry in the U.S. that will help grow our economy while saving money for American families.”

Through November, the network of state offices, local agencies, and weatherization providers has completed 300,000 homes. Of the total, more than 100,000 have been completed in just the last four months, showing the dramatically accelerated pace of weatherization under the program. A state-by-state breakdown of the homes weatherized through November is available at http://www.energy.gov/recovery/energyefficiency.htm.

Weatherization assistance reduces energy consumption for low-income families on average 35 percent, saving families on average more than $400 on their heating and cool bills in the first year alone. Nationwide, the weatherization of 300,000 homes is estimated to save $161 million in energy costs in just the first year.

DOE has worked closely with state and local governments to ensure the program is well-managed, responsive, and flexible. Nearly all of the states and territories involved in the program have met the milestone of weatherizing more than 30 percent of their targeted number of homes and many have completed more than half of their goals to date.

 

__________

Homes Weatherized by State

The Department of Energy is collecting monthly data from the states on the number of homes weatherized under the Recovery Act. The below spreadsheets shows figures for homes weatherized (1) in April 2010, and (2) in the first quarter of 2010 (January-March). In March, the weatherization network nationally reached their target run-rate and weatherized more than 25,000 homes across the country. Since the Recovery Act began, states have used their Recovery Act funding and annual program funds to weatherize more than 193,000 homes.

This is an end-of-the-year report on the number of homes weatherized by state as part of the Weatherization Assistance Program during calendar year 2009. This data was reported by states and may be updated as states finalize figures for homes weatherized through December 31st. By the end of 2009, states weatherized more than 125,000 homes with Recovery Act and non-Recovery Act annual federal funding. Since the Recovery Act funding allowed states to accelerate their existing programs with Fiscal Year 2009 funding, the combined total is the best indicator of progress in the program. Nevertheless, the pace of Recovery Act-funded weatherization tripled in the last three months of the year.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

email Scotts Contracting to schedule a Home Weatherization Inspection.   Scotty, will Analyze your Buildings Components and Supply a Proposal that will meet or exceed suggested Green Building Code– scottscontracting@gmail.com

  1. Computer Generated Reports
  2. Green Proposal will supply a ROI
  3. Cost Saving Analysis

Weatherization Doesn’t Cost it Saves

scottscontracting@gmail.com

Which Spray Foam Insulation is Best-Open Cell or Closed Cell

Scotty writes: In response to prior questions:

Q:Which Spray Foam Insulation is Best, Open Cell or Closed Cell?

Open-Cell Vs. Closed-Cell

The real distinction between types of foam insulation focuses on whether they are open- or closed-cell. In general, both are made from the same materials and work in the same way, trapping air or gas in a plastic matrix. The differences start with the “blowing agents” used to create bubbles and end with both varied performance and cost.

Open-cell foam costs slightly less for the same thickness, but offers lower per-inch R-values than closed-cell products. In some instances, this is a disadvantage, but where thickness is less relevant, or where higher R-values are not needed, then open-cell can provide the better choice. It also has some green advantages over closed-cell: The blowing agent used to install open-cell insulation is water, which reacts with air to become CO2—while closed-cell products use HFCs.

Because CO2 expands quickly, the bubbles tend to burst before the plastic sets, and hence the “open cells,” which produce a spongy, lightweight foam. The industry describes the foam as “half-pound” material, which simply means the foam has a mass that weighs 0.5 pounds per cubic foot. This density yields an R-value of approximately 3.6 per inch, equivalent to most traditional insulations. Because of the open cell structure, open-cell foam allows some vapor to pass through, making it a good choice in hot, humid climates, and under roof sheathing, such as in conditioned attics, where water vapor caught between insulation and sheathing could promote wood rot.

In short, open-cell foam, tested in accordance with ASTM E 283, provides an air barrier with vapor breathability. Water-blown solutions have less environmental impact than the current HFCs used for most closed-cell spray-foam insulation. And open-cell has about twice the noise reduction coefficient in normal frequency ranges as closed-cell foam. Because the blowing agent in open-cell insulation dissipates as it sets, instead of slowly over time, there is no degeneration of the R-value—a minor point given aged closed-cell R-values still trump open-cell R-values by a magnitude of nearly 100%.

Unlike open-cell foam, closed-cell foam uses chemical blowing agents that come in liquid form and become gasses as they are applied. These gasses expand, but not as quickly as CO2, allowing the polyurethane plastic to set before the bubbles burst. This yields dense foam weighing nearly 2 pounds per cubic foot, and without the capillary characteristics of open-cell, it remains impermeable. The blowing agents used perform like the inert gasses between the panes of high-performance windows, adding to the insulating qualities of the foam. Unlike open-cell foam, closed-cell foam rarely requires any trimming, with little or no jobsite waste.

Closed-cell has more obvious advantages over open-cell, and a slightly higher price tag (20% to 30% for the same thickness). It provides both a vapor and air barrier and offers an aged R-value of a whopping 6.5 per inch. Because of its density and glue-like consistency, it remains very strong, providing both compressive and tensile strength to structure comparable to added sheathing, increasing the racking strength of walls by as much as 300%, according to the NAHB Research Center. Because water does not penetrate or degrade the product, FEMA recommends closed-cell foam as a suitable insulation material for flood regions.

The principle disadvantage of closed-cell foam comes with overkill. If you do not require the extra vapor barrier, structural strength, and R-value per inch, then you may be wasting money. As for the added wall strength, while real and substantial, it’s not acknowledged by building codes currently, so you can’t reduce the structural bracing as a tradeoff.

—————

Information found at: http://www.ecohomemagazine.com

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